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Western Hills of Beijing

admin — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 08:58:03 +0000

Even though I would say Beijing is pretty flat, but the city is just next to mountains, small hills of Taihang Mountain chain touch the suburb of Beijing in the north and west direction, they are visible in the clear days, beyond the mountains in the north (where are famous for the Great Wall), there stretches the Inner Mongolia Plateau, in very hot summer days, just drive alone with the Jing-Zhang Express Way, 3 hours you can feel the cool breeze from grassland.

For the nearest hill to go in a daily excursion, most of Beijingers would choose to go the Western Hill, they are close by and convenient to reach, the recently finished Subway Line 4 will take you very close to there. The hills range in elevation about 500-600 meters above sea level, is very suitable for climbing up, and most importantly the area is rich with natural and historical points of interests: the Fragrant Hill Park is most renowned for its autumn leaves, the Beijing Botanical Garden is a nice spot for photographying in early spring, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha (Wofosi) is best known for its giant reclining Budda, in the Temple of Azure Clouds keeps a well preserved Vajrasana Throne Tower (there is another similar build at the Five-Pagoda Temple Wutasi), and in the south side of the hill, locates the Park with 8 temples – Badachu Park, it was a very popular place for the Beijingers in the ancient days.

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Temple of the Reclining Buddha (Wofosi)

admin — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 02:38:50 +0000

The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is located in the Western Hills at the southern foot of Jubao (also called Shou’an) Mountain, about 20 kilometers from Beijing downtown. It is inside the Beijing Botanical Garden, so if you want to visit this temple, you have to pay the garden ticket first.

The temple was first built during the Zhenguan period (627-249) of the Tang Dynasty, when it was also known as the Temple of Peaceful Longevity (Shou’ansi 寿安寺). In later periods it fell into ruin and was rebuilt and renamed several times. One of the last major renovations was completed in 1724.

As early as the Tang Dynasty, the temple contained a sandalwood sculpture of the reclining Buddha. In 1330-1331 during the Yuan Dynasty, a large-scale bronze image of the Buddha attaining Nirvana was cast, and from that time on, the temple was popularly called the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. According to the history of the Yuan Dynasty, the casting of this Buddha required 250,000 kilograms of bronze and 7,000 laborers. At the main entrance of the temple stands a glazed tile ornamental archway, and inside there are a bell tower and a drum tower flank a semi-circular pool.

The famous bronze Buddha is more than five meters long. The Buddha lies in a sleeping position, with one arm extended and the other propping up his head, and is surrounded by 12 smaller Buddhas. According to legend, this scene represents the Buddha on his deathbed giving instructions to his 12 disciples, who were seated under a pair of sal (poluo) trees.

The rear of the temple is set against the mountain cliffs, on top of which, a sutra repository was built; and at its front are open fields. On the western side are rockeries, pavilions.

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Temple of Azure Clouds (Biyun Si)

admin — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 02:24:05 +0000

Temple of Azure Clouds is inside the Fragrant Hill Park, it is close to the north gate, after paying the park ticket, another temple ticket (10 yuan) will be needed.

This temple was initially built during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) and was reconstructed during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The interior buildings almost retain the style of the Ming.

The gate of Azure Clouds which is faced by the stone lions is called the Mountain Gate. Close to it is a very deep pool where visitors can view a river that never dries up. On both sides of this temple are two Buddhist guardians which were carved during the Ming Dynasty and each being five meters in height. Upon entering this temple, tourists first visit the Front Palace where the stout Maitreya is displayed and then they encounter the Sakyamuni’s Palace where there are statues of Sakyamuni and his disciples as well as the Arhats.

There are three places very famous inside the temple.

First, is the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, which is in the center of the temple. A red wooden plaque hanging above the front gate of the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, the words on the plaque which is engraved in gold was written by his wife, Song Qingling. Inside this hall lies an empty crystal coffin presented by the USSR government in 1925 in memory of Sun Yat-sen, because his body had already been sealed inside the Vajra Throne Tower, the coffin was left here till now. Later in 1929, Sun’s body was moved and buried in Nanjing, the capital of China Republic. Photos of Sun Yat-sen, his handwriting, his books and his statue are also on display inside this hall.

Second, is the Five Hundred Arhats Hall located on the west side of the Temple of Azure Clouds, includes nine rooms, four small wells and a pavilion. The inner side of the front gate has figures of four heavenly kings, and three powerful Buddhas, Burning Lamp Buddha, Sakyamuni and Maitreya, are placed in the middle of this hall.

Altogether there are 512 statues, of which include 500 wooden Arhats, 11 Bodhisattvas and one statue of Ji Gong. All the Arhats are vivid, life-size statues with different poses and expressions. It has been said that two of these Arhats were the statues of Emperor Kangxi and Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty (1644 – 1911).

The third place is the magnificent Vajrasana Throne Tower, it is the highest building in the Temple of Azure Clouds. This 35 meter-high tower with elegant decorations is well-known within the area of Beijing City for its high elevation. It is still open to public, as a perfect observational position to view all the scenery in the suburbs of Beijing City, it is a very worthy to climb up. you can take a panorama photo on the top just like I did.

By the way, in a little courtyard on the side way, where the Fourth Session of the First Central Committee of Kuomingtang was convened in 1925 and lasted for 10 days, and it was recorded as Western Hills Meeting in history, the group had a political goal of ousting the Communist Left.

It is suggested that tourists visit the Temple of Recumbent Buddha (Wofo Si) first, then Xiangshan (Fragrant Hill), and lastly the Temple of Azure Clouds. These three tourist spots are all on one tour itinerary and can be reached by public transportation, bus 318, 333, 360 or 904.

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Temple of Earth

admin — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 12:11:09 +0000

In balance to the Temple of Heaven, Temple of Earth was built in 1530 in the Ming Dynasty, it was subsequently renovated in compliance with an imperial decree of Emperor Qianlong in 1749 in the period of Qing Dynasty, after the Cultural Revolution, in 1981 it was restored.

Different from the Temple of Heaven, the altar of Earth is shape of square, followed the Chinese idea of “Heaven is round, earth is square”. The Emperor would visit here on the day of summer solstice, during the ritual, sacrifices were offered on the altar to appease the gods of earth, which we believe they will help mankind in return.

This altar in the center is called 方泽坛 or Fangzetan, which can be literally translated as “Square Shaped Moated Altar “, there was a mini moat surrounding the altar, but no more today…we are in shortage of water…

During the ceremony, 15 statues of mountain gods would be presented in the north side of the 2nd terrace (not the top one), 8 statues of ocean gods and river gods would be presented in east and west side respectively on the same terrace.

Today Temple of Earth is most frequented not by tourists but local residents, as large space provides an ideal place for playing Taichi and other excercises.

It is still busy around the year, there 3 times of book fairs, and during the Chinese New Year, a traditional temple fairs will be held here as well.

How to get here: Lama Temple Stop of Subway Line 2, go to the north east exit, there is just about 5 minutes walking.

Ticket: 5 Yuan, go to the altar may be charged at another 5 yuan.

Tips: Here is very close to the Lama Temple, the Confucius Temple and Guozijian (the old Imperial College), you can make it a package for a full day visit, and after that for conclusion of this busy day, it is good to go into the small alleys around Nanluoguxiang looking for a cup of beer.

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Book Fair at Ditan

admin — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 07:10:49 +0000

Almost of all Chinese know a famous phrase by Francis Bacon “Knowledge is power”. Though today the conception of knowledge changes in some ways, while the source of getting knowledge changes a lot, internet plays a very important role in that aspect. But the books printed in paper is still very convenient, book prices are much internationlized in China recently, so they are no longer cheap in China, most people including me like to buy books online, they give you 20% or 30% off.

The book fair at Ditan (Temple of Earth) takes place 3 times a year, in May, Oct. and Dec., as the book prices at the fair are very cheap, 50% is not a surprise, and it could be even cheaper like 80% off or 90% off, sometime if you are lucky, you can buy 3 books at only 10 yuan, ha ha, that is cheap, normally the boothes like this are very crowded and the guys will yell loudly, saying something like last 10 minutes…you have to be careful to pick up your books and it has to be done in haste, it is very funny, some people choose their books not on the subjects but on front page design or thickness, sometimes it works sometimes doesn’t, I saw someone got very thick books from the stack but found out their books were just logarithm table!

Foreign books are avaible at some boothes, mainly in decoration, architect, photos, travels, I got a Lonely Planet of China (2008 version) at only 5 yuan, original price was 33 Euros, mais attention, Ca c’est en Francais.

Books at 70% to 50% off.

The guy standing on something is the boss of the booth.

Snack foods are avaible close by.

Gingko biloba trees in autumn at Ditan

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Axis Tour of Beijing

admin — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 14:20:59 +0000

Dear Guest,

I’m happy to introduce our new personal tour “To Be a Beijinger for a Day”. This 1 day tour focuses on the axis of Beijing. The tour will guide you through the various periods of Beijing’s history, from the 1400’s to present day.

The itinerary includes:

1. Temple of Heaven
2. Tian’anmen Square
3. Forbidden City
4. Olympic Park

Transportation: Taxi

Price: USD $60 per person, including transportation by taxi. I can pick you up from your hotel or meet at another rendezvous point. The price doesn’t include lunch and entrance fees to the attractions on the tour.

The price is on sale now, takes at 20% off, the promotion price is USD $48 per person, group price is also avaible, contact with me for further information.

Entrance Ticket :

Temple of Heaven: RMB 35 Yuan per Person;
Forbidden City: RMB 60 Yuan per Person.

Notes: There is about 3.3 miles of walking distance in the tour. You can have lunch around Di’anmen Street (Marked on the Map), as there are restaurants big or small, or if you like, KFC and McDonald’s are near by as well.

For more details of the tour, please check the Map and download the Brochure in PDF.

Preview of the PDF Brochure:

For booking please contact with me at: waddebye at gmail.com, or feedback me here:

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Temple of Heaven

admin — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 07:36:30 +0000

Temple of Heaven, or “Tiantan”, “the Altar of Heaven” in Chinese, was built in 1420, same time as the Forbidden City. It was opened to public in 1918, after 1945, during the civil war of China, the wall at the south part of the park was destroyed to setup a small airport.

Temple of Heaven is not a single temple actually. There are many buildings, basically there are three parts inside, and there is an local axis going along with the most important buildings.

Large space in the park is just occupied by trees, most of them cypress. This design was based on the ancient thought, that the worship done in the forest wasthe most sacred and also the cleanest. Today if you visit here early in morning, like 6 am, you can see many people are here, not for praying…but for morning exercise.

Temple of Heaven was placed on the list of the World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 1998, as the “largest building complex for worshipping heaven in the world”.

South Part: the Circular Mound Altar and the Imperial Vault of Heaven.

The Emperor would visit the Circular Mound Altar every year on the day of winter solstice, this ceremony was called the “Worshipping to Heaven”. To the north, in the little round courtyard, there are three buildings, the middle one is the Vault of Heaven, it was the place for storing the tablets of God of Heaven and the ancestors of the royal family. There are two flank buildings, in the east is for the tablets of the Gods of Brightness and Stars, in the west is for the tablets of Gods of Wind, Thunder, Cloud and Rain.

Though it was not likely for the Emperor to go through all the buildings in one time, there is a bridge to connect the south part to the north part. The Red Stariway Bridge is about 3 meters above the ground.

North Part: the Altar for Praying for Grain and the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest.

If we keep the south part in mind, it is easy to recoginzed the buildings in the north part, you can say that the same story repeated again, but note this time, the temple and the altar were built together, that is the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest was built on the Altar for Praying Grain. In the Ming and Qing Dynasty, the Emperor would visit here on the 8th day after the Chinese New Year. In the sense of architecture, the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest is the crown of the whole complex, very likely you have seen it in some other places, in photos or maybe even in brand logos.

West Part: the Palace of Abstinence
Before any of the ceremony, the Emperor would have to go fast for 3 days, first 2 days in the Hall of Abstinence inside Forbidden City, and the last day here, therefore the palace is walled and moated like the Forbidden City, during the occupation of the Eight Allied Force in 1901, the British headquaters was here.

Interesting acoustics phenomenon can be found at the round shaped buildings. First spot locates at the Circular Mound Altar, there is a piece of stone in the center, on that piece of stone, your voice can be echoed loudly, I tried and it works most of the cases, even when there were many visitors around. The second spot (the Echo Wall) and third sport (the Triple Sound Stones) are both inside the courtyard of the Imperial Vault of Heaven, and both of them don’t work in the daytime.

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Temple of Confucius (孔庙,Kongmiao)and the Imperial College (国子监,Guozijian)

admin — Fri, 24 Jul 2009 07:12:13 +0000

Mouth of a turtle, who is carrying a stele. His name is BiXi (赑屃), the 6th son of the dragon.

A Panaroma view of the Confucius Temple and the Imperial College.

As the two places are just by neighbour, they just share the same entrance at the of Confucius Temple, it costs 20 yuan.

Confucius Temple

The Beijing Confucius Temple was built in 1302 in the Yuan Dynasty, just outside of the temple, and the two sides of the entrance, there are two steles to order every visitors to dismount from horse or off the sedan chair.

Confucius (Chinese: 孔子; Kǒng zǐ; K’ung-tzu). “Master Kong,” (551 BC – 479 BC) was a thinker and social philosopher, whose teachings and philosophy have deeply influenced Chinese culture.

His philosophy emphasized personal and governmental morality, correctness of social relationships, justice and sincerity. These values gained prominence in China over other doctrines, such as Legalism (法家) or Taoism (道家) during the Han Dynasty (206 BC – 220 AD). Confucius’ thoughts have been developed into a system of philosophy known as Confucianism (儒家). It was introduced to Europe by the Jesuit Matteo Ricci, who was the first to Latinise the name as “Confucius.”

His teachings may be found in the Analects of Confucius (論語), a collection of “brief aphoristic fragments”, which was compiled many years after his death. Modern historians do not believe that any specific documents can be said to have been written by Confucius, but he was thought to be many of the First, the first editor or author of sorting and passing on the literature of the ancient China, the first to extend cultural education to the common people.

Confucius believed in that human society was a systematic collective body, which could be held together only by some norms (Rites and Decorum) of conduct so that only by this way, that peace and happiness could be brought to the people. “Once you have restrained your personal desires and made your words and deeds conform to decorum, you will be universally acknowledged as bearing the virtue of humanity” (克己复礼，天下归仁者), here includes a couple points of moral cultivation, such as: Loyalty or Faithfulness(忠), Filial Piety(孝), Respect(悌), Wisdom(智), Courage(勇), Honesty(诚) and Forbearance(恕). No wonder one of his disciples said “Our master’s doctrine is simply this: faithfulness and forbearance.”

Though he was not turn out to be successful in his own political life, his idea shaped shaped Chinese and China’s politics till now.

Duke of Yansheng (衍聖公 Yan Shenggong) was created as a marquisate for the direct descendent of Confucius from the Western Han dynasty. The last Duke Yansheng, K’ung Te-ch’eng (孔德成), 77th generation of Confucius died in 2008 in Taiwan. More of Confucius family tree at Wiki in Chinese.

The complex aligned along a central axis. From south to north, noteworthy structures includes the Xianshi Gate (先师门), Dacheng Gate (大成门), Dacheng Hall (大成殿) and Chongshengci (崇圣祠, not opened to public yet).

Inside the temple there are 198 stone tablets positioned on either side of the front courtyard, and they contains more than 51,624 names of Jinshi (the advanced scholars) of the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, and 14 stone stele pavilions of the Ming and Qing dynasties that hold the precious historical information of ancient China.The temple also contains stone tablets recording the names of many generations of scholars who passed the Imperial Examination, a reproduction of a Western Zhou period stone drum made during the reign of Qianlong (1735-96), and 189 stone steles containing the Thirteen Confucian Classics, presented by the city of Jintan in Jiangsu Province.

The Temple has many old trees, including one Cypress tree known as the “Touch Evil Cypress” (除奸柏). Its name derives from a story that when a famously corrupt official passed by, the tree knocked off his hat.

Guozijian or Imperial College

The Guozijian (國子監), the School of the Sons of State sometimes called the Imperial Central School, Imperial Academy or Imperial College was the national central institute of learning in the capital of each dynasty, it was the highest institute of learning in China’s traditional educational system.

Formerly it was called the Taixue for noble students. The central schools of taixue were established as far back as 3 CE, when a standard nationwide school system was established and funded during the reign of Emperor Ping of Han.When disbanded during the 1898 reform of the Qing Dynasty, the Guozijian was replaced by the Imperial Capital Academy.

Guozijian were located in the national capital of each dynasty — Chang’an, Luoyang, Kaifeng, and Nanjing. In Ming there were two capitals; thus there were two Guozijian, one in Nanjing and one in Beijing. The Guozijian, located in the Guozijian Street (or Chengxian street) in the Dongcheng District, Beijing, the imperial college during the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties (although most of its buildings were built during the Ming Dynasty) was the last Guozijian in China and is an important national cultural asset.

“辟雍”：“辟，璧也，像璧圆以法天也。雍者，雍之以水，像教化流行也。”《白虎通》

Emperor Tongzhi’s Imperial edict on the final result of the Imperial Examination in the year of 1868, 270 past it in the first class.

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Baiyunguan (White Cloud Taoist Temple)

admin — Sun, 05 Apr 2009 03:26:04 +0000

Taoism, a religion native to China, has a history of 1,800 years. It originated from shamanism and the various practices intended to ensure immortality in the Qin (221-207 BC) and Western Han (206 BC-AD 24) dynasties. Zhang Daoling is credited with founding the religion of Taoism on Heming Mountain (in Dayi County, Sichuan Province) during the reign of Emperor Shundi (126-144).

Laozi, the ancient Chinese philosopher, is the chief deity of Taoism and is honoured as Taishanglaojun (Lord the Most High). Taoists believe that Tao (the Way), Laozi’s school of thought, is all-embracing and external, conceiving and governing everything, including the sky and the earth. They also believe they can attain longevity and become one with the Tao through special practices of meditation.

The White Cloud Taoist Temple is the chief temple of the Quanzhen Taoist sect and the center of the Longmen sub-sect. According to historical records, Emperor Xuanzong (7l2-756) of the Tang Dynasty built a temple called Tianchangguan to enshrine a stone statue of Laozi. The Tianchangguan was burned down in 1202, but was rebuilt from 1203 to 1216 and renamed Taiji Palace. It was later damaged during war.

Emperor Genghis Khan (1206-1227) of the Yuan Dynasty ordered the temple rebuilt and invited Qiu Changchun, founder of the Longmen sub-sect under the Quanzhen sect, to live there in 1224. Qiu died in 1227 and the Emperor renamed the temple Changchun Palace in his memory.

The temple got its present name in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and was damaged twice by war and fire, and rebuilt and repaired several times. Today it is more or less the same as it was after renovation in 1706.

Before 1949, a large fair was held in the temple during the first 20 days of the first lunar month. People came from far away to venerate the enshrined statues, do business and enjoy themselves. Since 1949, it has protected cultural relics and historical sites. Twice, in 1956 and 1981, the government has allocated large sums of money to renovate the temple. During the “cultural revolution”, it was preserved intact, thanks to an army unit stationed here.

The temple is fronted by a magnificent archway. Its buildings are laid out around three parallel axes in several courtyards.

On the central axis, from south to north, are the shrine-halls of Lingguan (the door guard), the Jade Emperor, Qiu Changchun, Siyu (four major deities) and Laolu (the old way).

Qiu Changchun Hall is on the site where Qiu died in 1227. Inside the hall, Qiu’s statue is enshrined. In front of the statue is a valuable relic – a huge bowl made of the knotted root of tree. It was given in offering by Emperor Qianlong (1736-1795). Qiu’s remains are buried beneath the bowl, into which the faithful still offer money.

In Laolu Hall are seven statues of Taoist saints, including Qiu Changchun. On the right is a drum dating from the Ming Dynasty with a dragon painted on the leather drumhead.

Along the west axis stand shrine-halls of Yuanjun (major female deities), Yuanchen (60-year deities), Baxian (the eight immortals), Luzu (or Lu Dongbin), and the Citang (the ancestral worship hall).

Yuanchen Hall dates from 1190 when it was built by Emperor Zhangzong (1190-1208) of the Jin Dynasty to worship the deity of the year in which his mother was born. On the side walls are portraits of each of the deities for the 60-year cycle of the Chinese lunar calendar. Some visitors like to find the deity of the year in which they were born. This hall has been the most frequently visited by worshippers over the centuries.

In the temple are about 30 Taoist priests, who came from Hebei, Henan, Hubei, Jiangxi, Zhejiang and other provinces. They are in robes and wear their hair long and tied into a knot that is kept in place with a silver or jade pin. Some also wear a headband.

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Bei Hai Park 北海公园

admin — Thu, 19 Mar 2009 15:24:39 +0000

As part of the canal running from Summer Palace, Beihai Park (namelly “the North Sea”) is the last section of water opened to public, other two more lakes Zhonghai and Nanhai (the “Middle and South Sea”) occupied by the central goverment.

Beihai was first built in 938 A.D., in the Liao Dynasty. In 1267, Kublai Khan took here as the center of his capital and built his palaces very close by, now today they are underneath the Jingshan Hill. In the Ming and Qing Dynasty, Beihai was the inner garden and lake inside the Royal City, till 1925 it was opened as a public park.

Beihai was constructed based on the traditional Chinese mythological fairyland story: one lake and three islets, today only one kept (the one with the white pagoda), another one is the Tuancheng (used to be seperated by water), and the last one was merged with the bridge.

In the very south of the park, that is the Tuancheng City or the “City of Harmony”, where was the 2nd islet. It is 4.6 meters high and extended 276 meters in perimeter. In the center, that is a temple, but 2 trees famous, named as “General in White Robe” and “Marquis of Shade”.

The big Jade Jar by the center of here is also famous, it dates back to 1265.

This is the 1st islet out of the three holy islets, below the white pogoda is a temple named “永安寺” or the “Temple of Eternal Peace”

the Immortal’s Fairy Dew Plate from the Qing Dynasty

A view from the north side of the islet, at the left side of this photo, the stone was collected from Taihu Lake of Yangzhou, in the south of China

That is the temple on top of Jingshan Park

The Nine-Dragon Screen was erected in 1756, it was once the screen wall of a hall. The screen is about 25 meters long, there are nine dragons on each side of the screen.

Five-Dragon Pavillion

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